Part Two. The Grande Randonnee 65.

Our trek took us through the departments of Isere, Loire and 

Haute-Loire, crossing the rivers Rhone, Loire and Allier on the way. 

Each river crossing was marked by a subtle changes of scenery and 

landscape - first through muddy pebble-strewn paths lined with pear and 

walnut trees, then the Cotes du Rhone with its dry ashy soil and 

vineyards, then crossing the gorge of the Allier into the granite 

moorland of the Auvergne.

  We stayed mostly in gites or tables-d'hote - the first being like 

youth hostels with dormitories, the second being guest houses. In some 

places we stayed in regular hotels.  There were huge variations in the 

quality from one place to another - a number of gites were completely 

modernized with luxury bathrooms. On the other hand, some of the guest 

houses were nightmarish.

  In general we phoned in advance to make sure that there was room 

available, and also to order an evening meal. In the smaller villages it 

was impossible to get any food otherwise. In general, the food was good, 

with three or four courses and as much wine as we wanted included.

   We stayed two nights in Le Puy en Velay, a town worth visiting, in 

the Capucins guesthouse. We had to change rooms as the place was heavily 

booked, but it was superb. One amusing event was that the TV did not 

work, and after we asked staff to look at it, it turned out that the 

previous occupant must have devoted a lot of time and energy to 

disconnecting every single plug and socket on the TV and satellite 

receiver.  I can only guess he had some serious objections to electronic 

equipment.